Gomi, Japanese Whiskey Master
“I’d love to serve any guests who visit Akkeshi a whiskey highball, so that they can enjoy the marriage of authentic Akkeshi products and locally-made Japanese whiskey. ”
Bordered by national parks, split by sprawling rivers, and situated along the cold, nutrient-dense water of the Pacific Ocean, Akkeshi is a Hokkaido city blessed with abundance — natural resources that are expertly taken advantage of by the local whiskey distillery to craft superior-quality spirits.
One of the largest contributors to the brand's unique flavor is peat, harvested directly from the nearby marshlands. A naturally occurring product that produces an aromatic smoke when burned, peat provides whiskey with a complex, nuanced flavor that varies depending on what natural elements are included and where the peat was taken from. Beyond the crucial role played by the marshes, the cool climate and mineralized sea spray that wafts from the nearby waves also contribute to the creation of an elegantly flavored whiskey.
It’s within this singular environment that Gomi-san operates.
Managing one of Akkeshi’s premier accommodations, a position passed down in his family for countless generations, Gomi-san has both elevated the heritage of hospitality and sought for the heart of Japanese whiskey in his Hokkaido hometown. As Japanese whiskey’s popularity has skyrocketed in the international market, domestic distilleries have flourished, developing their own local take on a timeless culinary tradition.
Deeper Japan spoke with Gomi-san to hear more about his journey towards fostering the spirit of Japanese whiskey in Hokkaido.
Q: Can you tell us more about yourself, the history of your hotel and what makes the town of Akkeshi so special?
A: Our hotel was established in 1892 as Gomi Ryokan, and originally stood across the bridge from Kokutaiji, a historic temple nearby. Then, with the arrival of the railroad in 1917, our accommodation switched to its current location right in front of the station - we’ve been here since the start, and we’re still here now. In 1979, we transitioned again from a traditional-style ryokan to a hotel with a more modern atmosphere, adopting the name Hotel Gomi. But despite the changes, we still preserve some of the same traditions, continuing to serve Akkeshi oysters and local seafood, just like we did long ago in the past.
When I was younger, I left Akkeshi and moved to Tokyo, exploring a career in the wine industry, and even doing some work in the whiskey business as well. When I returned home to take over the business, it took a few years, but eventually, I started considering whiskey production in Akkeshi.
Q: So, your family has continued this business since the Meiji era, but there was a period of your life when you were in Tokyo, forging your own path - what was the catalyst that prompted you to return to Akkeshi?
A: Growing up as the only male in my family, I was raised with the expectation that I would take over the family responsibilities, so returning home after my time in Tokyo to help out felt like a natural step rather than a sacrifice. Having worked in the alcohol industry, I was able to return to Akkeshi and the hotel with new insight to offer. Thinking about it now, my experience outside of Hokkaido allowed me to meet all kinds of people, including world-renowned chefs and industry professionals, which truly made me realize how important it is for both the chef and the service provider to work well together to create a great time for the guests.
Q: Today you took us on a really comprehensive tour of the whiskey scene in Akkeshi - from touring the factory to visiting the peak fields and production site, and now, to sampling a tasting of Japanese whiskey at your hotel.
For the visitors coming here looking to immerse in an authentic taste of Japanese whiskey, what types of things do you want people to feel? Or, how can they best enjoy experiencing Japanese whiskey in Hokkaido?
A: Just like wine, I think whiskey also has a certain terroir. The climate, the humidity, the temperature, the smell in the air – all of this impacts the product. Akkeshi is a port time, so summer brings a southerly wind and the smell of the ocean tide. I think you can taste hints of the ocean in the whiskey. Also, as Akkeshi’s original main industry is seafood, the whiskey aged in this atmosphere undoubtedly pairs well with the local seafood.
I’d love to serve any guests who visit Akkeshi a whiskey highball, so that they can enjoy the marriage of authentic Akkeshi products and locally-made Japanese whiskey.
With a meticulous attention to providing high-quality services and a deep-rooted passion for combining hospitality and culinary excellence, Gomi-san warmly welcomes all visitors to experience the rich flavor of local Akkeshi culture and the heritage of Japanese whiskey.
Join Gomi-san on an immersive guided tour of Akkeshi’s whiskey scene, learning more about Akkeshi’s history and culture of distilling whiskey. Visit the marshlands where peat is directly sourced from, a woodworking shop where the whiskey barrels are crafted from local wood, and finally, indulge in a sampling of the distillery's signature styles in Gomi-san’s bar.
Read more, here.
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